How to Clean Jewelry Safely, by Metal and Gemstone

Warm water with a drop or two of mild dish soap, a soft brush and a lint-free cloth are safe for almost all jewelry and are the only safe method for some gems. Ultrasonic and steam cleaners work well on durable, untreated stones in sound settings, but they can damage pearls, opals, emeralds, turquoise, tanzanite and treated stones, and they can loosen stones in any setting. Keep chlorine bleach and abrasive cleansers away from all fine jewelry.

The basic method

The American Gem Society recommends a mixture of warm water and a drop or two of mild dishwashing detergent, with water-safe pieces left to soak for about 20 minutes, and suggests cleaning frequently worn pieces about once a month.

1. Close the sink drain or work over a bowl. GIA warns against cleaning near an open drain.
2. Soak water-safe pieces in the soapy water.
3. Brush gently with a soft, clean toothbrush, paying attention to the back of stones and under the setting, where oils and lotion build up.
4. Rinse in clean warm water.
5. Dry with a lint-free cloth and let pieces air-dry fully before storing. For strung pearls, GIA says the string must be completely dry before wearing.

Fragile or antique settings may not tolerate vigorous brushing. GIA advises extra care with those.

By metal

• Gold. GIA notes that commercial cleaning solutions made for jewelry are a good choice for most gold pieces. Soapy water is a safe default. White gold is usually rhodium plated, and GIA notes that the plating wears with time and may need renewing.
• Platinum. Platinum does not tarnish and can withstand jewelry cleaning solutions, according to GIA.
• Sterling silver. Use a cleaner made for silver jewelry or a silver polishing cloth. Every polish removes a little silver, so storage that slows tarnish saves metal. See 925 Sterling Silver for tarnish and storage.
• Plated, gold-filled and vermeil pieces. Use soapy water and a soft cloth only. Abrasive polishes wear through thin surface layers. The differences between these finishes are explained in Gold Plated vs Gold Filled vs Vermeil.

By gemstone

The table follows GIA’s care and cleaning guides for each gem. “Usually safe” means for stones in sound condition with no fractures or fragile treatments. When a stone’s treatment is unknown, use the soapy-water column only.

Gem	Warm soapy water	Ultrasonic	Steam	Notes
Diamond	Safe	Not for home use	Not for home use	GIA notes both devices can loosen stones; jewelers check settings first
Ruby and sapphire	Always safe	Usually safe if untreated, heat-treated or lattice diffusion treated	Same as ultrasonic	Fracture-filled, cavity-filled or dyed stones: damp cloth only
Emerald	Safest method	Risky	Risky	Most emeralds are fracture-filled; steam can sweat out oil or resin
Opal	Only safe method	No	No
Pearl	Safe, occasionally	Never	Never	Wipe with a soft cloth after each wearing
Turquoise	Safe	Never	Never	Discolored by chemicals, cosmetics and skin oils
Tanzanite	Always safe	Never	Never	Avoid high heat and sudden temperature changes
Amber	Only safe method, mild soap	No	No
Coral	Safest method, mild soap	Avoid	Avoid	Porous; keep away from all chemicals

Notes on individual gems

Diamond. GIA’s diamond care guide says diamonds can be cleaned with lint-free cloths, commercial jewelry cleaning solutions and household detergents, and that powdered abrasive cleansers, ultrasonic cleaners and steam cleaners are not recommended for home use. GIA’s consumer site also describes a weekly routine of soaking diamond jewelry overnight in an ammonia-based household cleaner such as window cleaner, then brushing with a soft toothbrush. Ammonia-based cleaners are not suitable for organic gems such as pearls, so this routine is for diamond pieces only.

Ruby and sapphire. Corundum is stable in normal wear, but GIA’s ruby guide notes that boric acid powder will etch the surface of even untreated stones. The high-lead glass in fracture-filled rubies can be damaged by many chemicals, including substances as mild as lemon juice. The sapphire guide gives the same cleaning advice.

Emerald. According to GIA, some estimates put the share of fracture-filled emeralds at 90 percent or more. Ultrasonic vibration can weaken already-fractured stones, hot steam can make oil or unhardened resin sweat out of fractures, and heat can extend existing fractures. Light and chemicals can also change or break down the fillers over time. The background on emerald sources and treatment is in Colombian Emeralds.

Opal and amber. GIA’s opal and amber guides both say the only safe way to clean these gems is warm, soapy water.

Pearl. GIA says pearls should never go in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner and can be damaged by many chemicals and all acids, including hair spray, perfume, cosmetics and even perspiration. Put pearls on after cosmetics and perfume, and wipe them after wearing. Dyed and treated pearls need the same care; how to recognize them is covered in Dyed and Irradiated Cultured Pearls.

Turquoise and coral. GIA’s turquoise guide warns that high heat can cause discoloration and surface damage, and that heat or solvents can damage treated surfaces. GIA groups coral with turquoise as porous gems that should always be kept away from chemicals.

Tanzanite. GIA’s tanzanite guide rules out ultrasonic and steam cleaning entirely and notes that the rare color coatings found on some stones are not permanent. More on the stone is in Tanzanite: Where It Comes From and How to Buy It.

Chemicals to avoid

• Chlorine and bleach. GIA warns that chlorine and other bleaching agents can damage some gemstones and metal alloys. Take rings off before pools, hot tubs and household cleaning.
• Abrasives. GIA says abrasives such as household cleansers or toothpaste should never be used on diamond jewelry, and the same caution is sensible for softer gems and plated metal.
• Acids. Lemon juice and other mild acids can damage treated rubies and sapphires and harm pearls.
• Cosmetics, perfume and hair spray. These attack pearls and can discolor turquoise.

When to go to a jeweler

A jeweler should handle anything beyond routine soapy-water cleaning when:

• the piece has stones set in prongs, pavé or channels and is going into an ultrasonic or steam cleaner, since GIA notes that jewelry professionals examine pieces for loose stones before using these devices;
• a stone is known or suspected to be fracture-filled, cavity-filled, dyed or coated;
• the piece is antique, has fragile settings, or combines several gem types; or
• it is time for a periodic professional cleaning, which GIA suggests for diamond jewelry.

Safety note

• Never mix cleaning chemicals. The National Capital Poison Center warns that mixing ammonia and bleach produces chloramine gas, which causes coughing and sore throats. Keep ammonia-based jewelry soaks well away from bleach.
• Ventilate. Use ammonia-based products with fresh air circulating, as the Poison Center advises.
• Steam cleaners use high-pressure steam, according to GIA. Keep hands and face clear of the nozzle.
• Follow the instructions supplied with any ultrasonic cleaner or commercial jewelry solution, and keep cleaners labeled and out of reach of children.

Common questions

Can I use an ultrasonic cleaner at home on my diamond ring? GIA does not recommend it for home use, because ultrasonic vibration can loosen stones. A jeweler checks the setting before using one.

Is toothpaste safe for cleaning jewelry? No. GIA says abrasives such as toothpaste should never be used on diamond jewelry, and softer gems and plated pieces have even less margin.

How often should jewelry be cleaned? The American Gem Society suggests about once a month for frequently worn pieces. Pearls should be wiped with a soft cloth after every wearing.