Gold Plated vs Gold Filled vs Vermeil: What Each Term Means

All three terms describe a layer of karat gold over another metal, and the difference is how much gold there is and what lies underneath. Under the FTC Jewelry Guides, gold electroplate needs a layer at least 0.175 microns thick, gold filled needs karat gold bonded by a mechanical process making up at least one-twentieth of the article’s metal weight, and vermeil needs a sterling silver base with a gold layer at least 2.5 microns thick. In all three, the gold itself must be at least 10 karat.

The FTC definitions in plain English

The rules are in 16 CFR 23.3 (gold) and 16 CFR 23.4 (vermeil). This is a summary, not legal advice.

Gold electroplate and heavy gold electroplate

Electroplate is applied by an electrolytic process. To be marked or described as “Gold Plate,” “Gold Plated,” “Gold Electroplate” or “Gold Electroplated,” the plating must:

• cover all significant surfaces;
• be gold, or a gold alloy of at least 10 karat;
• be of reasonable durability; and
• have a minimum thickness throughout equivalent to 0.175 microns (about 7 millionths of an inch) of fine gold.

When the plating is at least 2.5 microns (about 100 millionths of an inch) of fine gold equivalent, it may be called “Heavy Gold Electroplate.” The karat of the plating must come immediately before the term, as in “12K G.E.P.”

Thickness is measured as fine gold equivalent. The Guides give the example that 1 micron of 12 karat gold is equivalent to half a micron of 24 karat gold, so a lower-karat layer has to be thicker to meet the same minimum.

Gold filled, rolled gold plate and gold overlay

These terms apply only to gold alloy of at least 10 karat that is affixed by mechanical means: soldering, brazing, welding or similar, usually by bonding a sheet of karat gold to a base metal core and then rolling or drawing it.

• At least 1/40th of the weight of the metal in the whole article: “Gold Plate,” “Gold Overlay,” “Rolled Gold Plate” or “Rolled Gold Plated.” The FTC’s examples include “14 Kt. Gold Overlay” and “1/40 12 Kt. R.G.P.”
• At least 1/20th of the weight: “Gold Filled.”

The karat must be stated, and for rolled gold plate and gold overlay the fraction of weight may be stated too. In the trade, gold-filled wire and sheet are commonly described with both, such as 14K gold filled 1/20, and a Ganoksin Orchid forum thread explains that 1/10 stock carries twice as much 14K as 1/20.

Vermeil

An item may be described as vermeil only if it has a base of sterling silver coated on all significant surfaces with gold or gold alloy of at least 10 karat, of reasonable durability, with a minimum thickness throughout equivalent to 2.5 microns of fine gold. A note to the section adds that it is deceptive to call a piece vermeil without disclosing a base metal layer between the silver and the gold. Plating on brass or copper is not vermeil, whatever its thickness. The silver standard behind vermeil is explained in 925 Sterling Silver.

Other wording to watch

• “Gold washed” over base metal. If a gold plate layer is covered with a base metal such as nickel and then a thin wash of gold, the Guides say this should be disclosed.
• “Clad,” “bonded” and similar. The 2018 final revisions note that the Guides do not set standards for these newer coating terms.
• Unqualified “gold.” Plated or filled items may not be called simply “gold.” The word must be qualified to show the gold is only on the surface.
• “Sterling” on plated base metal. Under 15 U.S.C. 297, a plated article may not be stamped with a karat mark unless words such as “gold plate” or “gold filled” go with it, and may never be stamped “sterling” or “coin.”

Marks you may see

Mark	Meaning	FTC minimum
14K GEP, 12K G.E.P.	Gold electroplate	10K or better; 0.175 microns fine gold equivalent
HGE, Heavy Gold Electroplate	Heavy gold electroplate	10K or better; 2.5 microns fine gold equivalent
GP, Gold Plated (with karat)	Gold plate by any process	Depends on process: electroplate or 1/40 mechanical
1/40 12K RGP	Rolled gold plate	10K or better; 1/40 of metal weight
14K GF, 1/20 14K GF	Gold filled	10K or better; 1/20 of metal weight
Vermeil, often with 925	Gold over sterling silver	10K or better; 2.5 microns over sterling

A karat stamp on its own, such as “14K,” means solid karat gold throughout. On a plated or filled item, the karat should always appear with the plating term. Other marks are covered in Jewelry Hallmarks and Quality Marks, and what the karat numbers mean is in Gold Karats Explained.

How they compare

	Gold electroplate	Heavy gold electroplate	Gold filled	Vermeil
Base metal	Any	Any	Usually brass or another base metal	Sterling silver
How gold is applied	Electrolytic	Electrolytic	Mechanical bonding	Plating or coating
Minimum gold (FTC)	0.175 microns	2.5 microns	1/20 of total metal weight	2.5 microns
What shows when the gold wears through	Base metal	Base metal	Base metal	Silver
Relative wear life (by minimum gold)	Shortest	Longer	Longest of the four	Similar to heavy electroplate

Gold filled sets its minimum as a share of total weight, not a thickness, so a direct micron comparison depends on the item. Contributors to the Ganoksin Orchid forum describe the gold layer of gold filled as far heavier than electroplate, taking many years of normal wear to wear through, and note that good gold-filled stock tarnishes like solid karat gold but cleans back to its original color.

In the UK, the rules differ. The Hallmarking Guidance Notes state that gold-plated silver is hallmarked as silver, with no standalone gold fineness mark allowed; it may be described in forms such as “925 & 18ct gold plated.” Gold-plated base metal, including rolled and bonded gold, cannot be hallmarked at all.

Care

The gold layer is the part to protect, and on electroplate it is very thin.

• Clean gently. Mild soapy water and a soft cloth are enough. GIA advises against powdered abrasive cleansers, and the Canadian Conservation Institute notes that polishing can damage or remove a thin plated layer.
• Keep chemicals away. GIA warns that chlorine and other bleaching agents can damage some gemstones and metal alloys, so remove plated jewelry before pools, hot tubs and household cleaning.
• Skip home ultrasonic and steam cleaners on pieces with stones. GIA notes that both can loosen gemstones in their settings.
• Polish sparingly. Every rub with a polishing cloth takes a little of the surface with it, and on electroplate there is very little to spare.

General cleaning guidance by metal and gemstone is in How to Clean Jewelry Safely.

Common questions

Is vermeil better than gold plated? Vermeil must be at least 2.5 microns of 10K or better gold over sterling silver. Ordinary gold electroplate only needs 0.175 microns and can be over any metal, so vermeil carries more gold and a precious base.

Can gold-filled jewelry be called gold? Not on its own. It should be described as gold filled, with the karat stated, for example 14K gold filled.

Is heavy gold electroplate the same as vermeil? They share the same minimum gold thickness, 2.5 microns of fine gold equivalent in 10K or better. The difference is the base: vermeil must be sterling silver, while heavy gold electroplate can be over any metal.